Special shout-out to Sol, the manager, for her warmth and good travel sense — she directed us to a great hike and then tea at Llao Llao (where, yes, we showed up in hiking boots) and equally as much to a very bohemian cheese fondue joint. And they work with Fire and Ice, ski rental/instructor joint on the far end of Cerro Catedral, where they hooked us up with a **great** instructor/ski guide (ask for Muchacho), and where we had the singular experience of having them call us one morning to say that the ski conditions were not good enough to go out – when did you ever have the experience of ski resort people not trying to suck you dry for money? This may have been the friendliest travel experience ever.